My new turbo Kat project
Re: My new turbo Kat project
So I cut some of as you can see in this one.
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Got the motor in place ready for the rebuild. Got to strip it ready for Sat as taking it to Upperton ready turbo prep. Straight cuts, heavy duty studs etc
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Draw around it with a marker, then you can see the exact shape, & trim back with the angle grinder & files. 

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DEANOTEK
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DEANOTEK wrote:Draw around it with a marker, then you can see the exact shape, & trim back with the angle grinder & files.
That's what i did bud,


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The plan tonight is to strip the motor, hopefully! my freaking calm muscles are fecked, spent the weekend walking around Paris with the with and kids.
was cool mind.
So if I can get it completely stripped I can get it over to Roger Upperton on Saturday. I'm going to be taking his advise on what's needed as he's been about along time and built some quick motors, cash is a little tight so want to make sure the bottom end is right first. He is going to strip the crank, inspect and do what ever is needed to strengthen it, welding I guess and add straight cuts. As for the gear box that's not being touched as this will primarily be a road bike. Will have HD crankcase studs and HD head studs. going to beef up the clutch basket, however Roger mention this ain't so important on straight cuts. I'm going to be using a 1mm spacer plate, (I'll add my maths later) with stock forged efe pistons, I know these are ok for 250hp as my mate Oggie had them in his turbo drag bike until recently. I want to run the top end oil feed externally, I have high flow gears. I'm going to be using stock efe cams.
This will be my first turbo bike, to say I'm excited is a understatement.

So if I can get it completely stripped I can get it over to Roger Upperton on Saturday. I'm going to be taking his advise on what's needed as he's been about along time and built some quick motors, cash is a little tight so want to make sure the bottom end is right first. He is going to strip the crank, inspect and do what ever is needed to strengthen it, welding I guess and add straight cuts. As for the gear box that's not being touched as this will primarily be a road bike. Will have HD crankcase studs and HD head studs. going to beef up the clutch basket, however Roger mention this ain't so important on straight cuts. I'm going to be using a 1mm spacer plate, (I'll add my maths later) with stock forged efe pistons, I know these are ok for 250hp as my mate Oggie had them in his turbo drag bike until recently. I want to run the top end oil feed externally, I have high flow gears. I'm going to be using stock efe cams.
This will be my first turbo bike, to say I'm excited is a understatement.
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Have a good inspection of the gears etc,.. i did 500 miles on mine when i first rebuilt the motor in turbo form, it spat 3 teeth off 3rd gear when i gave it some & the boost came in,..guess which only part i didnt inspect as i took it as being ok,... yep, thats right.. i never checked the gearbox cogs.
Upon inspection, the 3rd gear cog had loads of small hairline cracks in it.... I never had any trouble when it was 1428cc normally aspirated, strangely enough.
I was lucky, i got away with it... the 3 teeth were sat on the sump, they actually fitted back on the cog perfectly, & there was no debris. But it was still an engine out job, & rebuild with a new gearbox.
Luckily i rebuilt it by just removing the bottom crankcase, & fitting the new gearbox, i didnt disturb the top end.


Luckily i rebuilt it by just removing the bottom crankcase, & fitting the new gearbox, i didnt disturb the top end.
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DEANOTEK
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Cheers for that bud, I will take note, 

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Had a great night in the cave tonight, got a few dead lines to stick to, need to get the powder coating over to Birmingham Friday, thats all nearly ready.The engine needs to be with Roger by Sat.
I will post pics of how I do things, if you have hints, tips share them please
So to remove the clutch mechanism I used a little 1/8th drive extension bar and wooden hammer, it and the bearing came out nicely.
For the site glass I used a small socket that fitted tightly against the windown and a large socket on the back. remember you push away from the painted side
I will post pics of how I do things, if you have hints, tips share them please

So to remove the clutch mechanism I used a little 1/8th drive extension bar and wooden hammer, it and the bearing came out nicely.
For the site glass I used a small socket that fitted tightly against the windown and a large socket on the back. remember you push away from the painted side
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Stripped the forks for powder coat, I use a cut down allen key, fit that in a socket and fit that into my air gun
these are some of the allen keys I have mullered for various forks

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Forks before stripping, dust seals are fubar
the oil was clean

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